By SUZANNE WILCOX ENGLISH
On June 19, 2019, I set off on a journey I had dreamed about for seven years: hiking more than 100 miles on El Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. Since the ninth century, pilgrims have completed the Camino to reach the tomb of the Apostle St. James (the Greater), who died in Jerusalem in 44 C.E. The site of his burial was lost for 800 years, and when his remains were rediscovered the cathedral in Santiago was built to hold them.
The last 100 miles of the most traditional route, the Camino Francés, crosses northern Spain from Leon to Santiago, traversing the leafy forests and farm fields that make up much of Galicia.
With eight other pilgrims – all strangers to me at the start – I averaged about 12 miles a day for nine days. On the ninth day, we walked into the square in front of the Cathedral of St. James and I turned and saw the end of our quest. We hugged and congratulated each other, taking a photo with one hiking shoe each around the scallop shell, symbol of the Camino, at the center of the square in front of the cathedral. It was a powerful moment, but the journey itself was a walk of faith.
During those days on the trail, I learned – or in some cases, remembered – 10 important lessons that have stayed with me.
1. I am blessed, and proud, to be part of the universal Church.
The simple existence of the Camino de Santiago, which began in the ninth century, is a testament to the devotion of countless followers of Christ over the centuries. Participating in Masses said in Spanish, Latin, English and German reminded me of how blessed we are to be part of the Catholic (which means universal) Church.
In Leon, after meeting our guides and fellow pilgrims for the first time, we toured the city and its major cathedral, the Catedral de Santa Maria de Regla de Leon, with a professional guide, getting our first glimpse of the scallop shell that is the symbol of the Camino. I touched the spindle outside the cathedral that was originally carved with a likeness of St. James; the hands of pilgrims over the centuries had worn it smooth. That afternoon, we received our pilgrim’s “credencial,” a kind of passport that is stamped to confirm your route along the Camino. We attended evening Mass and afterward the deacon gave us a brief blessing in both English and Spanish. He wished us a “buen Camino,” a good walk, a phrase that would be repeated countless times, and then stamped our pilgrim credenciales.
Participating in a Mass said in a language not your own, and knowing the parts well enough to say them in your own language, as well as share the sign of peace and exchange smiles with those nearest you, confirms the sense of sharing in an ancient and true tradition. In these days when it’s sometimes hard to be a Christian in the public sphere, it’s wonderful to know that so many good people are walking the journey with you.
3. Always be open to learning.
One of my favorite stops on the Camino itself was at a castle of the Knights Templar who, when Jerusalem was in the hands of the infidels, guarded the pilgrims on the Camino. We also passed various structures used to store grain by the Galician farmers, stopped to see an 800-year-old chestnut tree mentioned in pilgrims’ diaries over the centuries, and explored a Celtic fort situated just off the trail.
Our guides made our lunchtime picnics each day with local specialties – an example: mussels, a salad with seasoned couscous, spinach, tomatoes, feta and basil; fresh local bread; romaine leaves stuffed with creamy cheese and topped with walnuts; and bricks of dark chocolate and almond cookies for dessert. We also had the opportunity to enjoy local delicacies everywhere we stayed, including the best paella I have ever tasted, octopus, fried peppers, chorizo and pig’s ear. I tried them all! You only live once.
5. God speaks to us in his creation, and we can find him in the silence.
Walking across northern Spain offered an endless and varied panorama of stunning fields, flowers and forests. The region of Galicia is surprisingly agrarian, with many families keeping between three and eight cattle as well as other farm animals, and they farm much as their families have for centuries. The peace and slower pace settled into my soul, and while I enjoyed time with my companions, I walked alone for about two-thirds of the time.
I wanted the opportunity to truly absorb the beauty around me, to stop to take photos when I chose, and to have quiet time to listen to God. While I am in the habit of daily prayer, being able to immerse myself in such beauty without the demands of daily work was a special experience, and I felt that simply hiking in gratitude was prayer.
Sometimes I would stop in one of the hundreds of chapels we passed, but more often I just enjoyed taking in the scenes before me, celebrated when we reached a special milestone, or took in the beauty and glorious scent of walking through a grove of eucalyptus trees. I thanked God for the opportunity to make the Camino, for being healthy enough to walk it, and for the beauty through which I walked every day.
7. Testing yourself is good for the soul.
Hiking the Camino was a challenge. Anyone interested in taking it on should read hiking blogs to get tips on footwear, clothing and supplies, learn how to care for yourself (especially your feet!) and most importantly, should train for at least a couple of months in advance. I started walking two miles most evenings and then walked increasing distances both on Saturday and Sunday – starting at 4-6 miles and increasing to 8-10 miles.
Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that each day would be front-loaded: We started about 9 a.m. and hiked until 2 p.m., the traditional European lunchtime. On a 15-mile day, we might hike 10-12 of those miles before stopping for lunch. Hiking longer training distances would have been wise.
Despite some tough and tiring times the first few days, I was delighted to feel my body tightening up in response to the demands on it, and felt certain I could rise to the challenge. While in the end I lost eight pounds and also lost four toenails from the downhill pressure, completing the Camino was one of the most satisfactory accomplishments of my life.
9. Sharing time with friends over a meal is one of the true joys of life.
Our group of nine very different people ranged in age from the early 30s to mid-70s and came from places spanning New York to California. Our guides, Hector and Raul, were native Spaniards, one from Barcelona and the other from Madrid. One of the things that helped our group to bond so well was that we ate breakfast, lunch and dinner together every day. You get to know people when you break bread with them, even in the morning when they might be cranky because we didn’t finish dinner until 10:30, or when they are hurting from climbing hills and fighting blisters.
Sharing a table helps you to know what is going on in their lives. Susan, a 76-year-young woman from California, told us, “I’m just here for the experience,” and did a self-proclaimed “princess walk” of no more than five miles each day. We celebrated together, too. Kristin marked a birthday on the trail, and we shared her birthday cake at lunch. We toasted the approach to the city with Santiago cake and wine. I found the photo taken at our last dinner together remarkable; you could see how comfortable we had become with each other in just 10 days and how much fun we had together.
2. Things go wrong in life, but that doesn’t spoil the journey.
On our first hiking day, we climbed a pretty steep grade, rising more than 1,300 vertical feet over the course of the afternoon, to the Iron Cross, a pilgrim stopping point since the 13th century. Lavender surrounding the rock outcroppings graced our walk with sweetness as we climbed.
A storm began to move in and we walked the last hour in a light but steady rain, pulling on our windbreakers and rain jackets as we hiked. When we arrived, thunder had begun to rumble. I took part in the special ceremony of laying a stone I had brought with me at the foot of the Cross. The practice symbolizes placing your burdens, and your sins, at the Lord’s feet. As I was making this journey in between a job I loved and a new one that excited me, it was a beautiful symbol of leaving my previous team and employer in God’s hands, where they truly always had been, and looking forward to my new challenges. When our last hiker, Julie, who was nursing an injury, came in, I left the waiting bus to take a picture of her – she beamed.
The next day, when we were in steep descent mode, I twisted my knee, and along with most of my comrades, found my first blister. After reading Camino blogs, I had brought a heavy-duty Ace bandage, which protected my knee, and blister packs, essentially oversized Band-Aids with an emulsion that absorbs moisture and protects the blistered area while it heals. I had no pain from my blisters during the hike, which to me was amazing.
4. Saying ‘hello’ often leads to interesting conversations.
When I was climbing a rather steep hill during my second day on the trail, I approached a woman who was climbing wearing a crown of flowers on her head.
I said hello and walked along for a few moments, then commented, “Your flowers are beautiful. Why did you choose to wear them today?” She broke into a wide smile and told me her name is Linda. “Today is Midsummer, which is an important feast day in my country of Sweden. I have been walking since early May, and it is a little hard to be away from family during this special time. So I decided to share the feast with everyone whom I meet on the trail.” I thanked her for sharing the feast with me and wished her a happy Midsummer!
A few days later, I heard guitar music wafting along as I hiked along a river and came upon a gentleman playing this guitar, with his dog and a cap to receive coins lying near him. I asked if I could take his picture and he nodded yes, so I did so and left him a few euro, telling him “Gracias por la musica!” [should have an accent on the u] (Thank you for the music!) He smiled.
Later we toured a monastery in a village where they were preparing to mark the universally celebrated Feast of St. John the Baptist, June 24. The public squares were decorated with elaborate sculptures created with flowers, colored sand and pebbles, and our guide told us of plans for a parade with statues carried through the streets.
I also enjoyed thoughtful discussions with a fellow traveler, an attorney from Nebraska who was brought up Methodist, who was discerning whether or not he should become a Catholic and had made the Camino as part of his faith journey. After the hike, we shared emails and I sent him a recommendation for a Scott Hahn book, “The Lamb’s Supper.” I will be interested to learn what he thinks.
6. People as a whole are welcoming, kind and generous.
From the fellow pilgrims who call out “buen Camino” as they pass to the many store and tavern owners who offer extra goodies, advice and support, everyone is encouraging of your journey. I especially enjoyed the little notes and messages left by other pilgrims, my favorite being, “You already have the answer; just be brave and listen.”
We stayed in restored manor houses that people had either converted from their family homes or purchased and renovated to serve as B&Bs. The structures and their history were fascinating, and it was worthwhile to take time to read about the process of converting them and talk with the family or the owners about the process. One young woman, Lucia, whose family had lived in our lodge for 17 generations, cooked for us, told us Galician legends and made a light cider brew for us.
In addition, our guides were extremely generous with their time in preparing and giving perspective on the history and culture of Spain. One morning Raul traced the shifting borders and early kingdoms of Spain to help us understand its complex history. Other pilgrims would stop to assist someone who was having difficulty or answer questions for those who were confused, and people who lived along the way would offer water, snacks and good wishes as well.
8. Faith can bring you joy in unexpected moments.
Our first day on the contiguous trail (the trip to the Iron Cross was an add-on) was at Santa Maria a Real church in Cebreiro. The word “Real” means that it was founded by the royal family; the king and queen of Spain had established it when they made a pilgrimage. I prayed at the small second altar, and then stopped at the baptistry and found it was watched over by a Cross of San Damiano, precious to Franciscans.
I visited a small chapel in Melide and prayed before a striking statue of a compassionate Christ reaching down from the cross, an image that has stayed with me. And to end the experience, having the pilgrims’ noon Mass said in the Cathedral of St. Francis (because of construction in the Cathedral of St. James), was another delightful surprise. I had the opportunity to speak with some fellow pilgrims from Germany while we were waiting for Mass to begin and completely enjoyed the Mass, said in Spanish with parts sung in Latin.
10. Walk your own Camino.
Aside from the greeting of “buen Camino,” “walk your own Camino” is another common saying on and around the trail. When you are preparing to make the journey, it’s common to seek advice, and it is invaluable to talk with others who have made the Camino. However, when you have prepared, mapped out your route and made the decision of how/where/when, it’s time to make it your own.
Everyone has his or her own reasons for making the Camino, and preferences for how to walk, carry their pack, eat and even talk with others. For me, it was contemplative time; for Annalisa, becoming comfortable traveling alone; for Terry, making the trip a part of his questioning faith journey; for Susan, simply reveling in the experience.
Making the Camino your own is a reminder that each of us also needs to make our life’s journey our own. I wish each of you your own “buen Camino,” and encourage you to make it true to who you are, and to walk it with love.
Suzanne Wilcox English
Executive Director of Office of Mission Advancement, Felician Sisters of North America
